As we age, it’s perfectly natural for our lips to lose volume. Collagen production — the protein responsible for keeping skin plump — starts to decline in our 20s, and that includes the collagen in our lips. While this process can’t be reversed, there are makeup techniques that can bring youthful fullness back to your pout — and one master artist is spilling her secret.
Enter Rose-Marie Swift, celebrity makeup artist and founder of the cult-favorite clean beauty brand RMS Beauty. Known for her minimalistic and skin-loving approach to makeup, Swift recently took to TikTok alongside supermodel Miranda Kerr to share her ultimate lipstick tip for thinning lips — and it’s surprisingly easy to do at home.
The Lip Trick That Instantly Fakes a Fuller Pout
Swift, who’s in her 70s and still a force in the beauty world, says the trick starts with reshaping the lips using a pencil. But not just any kind of shaping — she goes bold.
“I get rid of the bow of the lip between here and here,” she explains, gesturing to the cupid’s bow. By rounding out this area with lip liner instead of accentuating the dip, Swift creates the illusion of a smoother, more voluminous upper lip. “It makes it look like there’s more lip,” she adds.
Her second step? Powder. But not just any powder — one that’s free of talc. Swift taps a bit of it around the edge of the lips with her finger before applying any color. This not only sets the shape but also minimizes the appearance of fine lines around the mouth.
Then comes the lipstick — applied with a firm, angled brush. “It’s not going to feel like a pretty little brush on your lip,” she laughs. But this method has purpose: it pushes pigment into every crevice, smoothing out what she jokingly calls “all those jiggy jaggles.” The brush technique creates crisp lines and helps blur over any wrinkles, giving lips a more even and youthful look.
And finally, the color choice is crucial. Swift swears by bold hues. “A strong color makes you look younger,” she says, pointing out that deeper tones contrast beautifully with skin and bring vibrancy back to the lips.
Keep It Simple, Not Cakey
While the brush technique and bold liner are transformative, Swift stresses that simplicity is key when it comes to mature lips. “I don’t like tons of layers of stuff on the lips,” she warns. “It’s going to make it look cakey.”
That philosophy is backed by dermatologists too. Dr. Andrea Suarez, a board-certified dermatologist and popular skin-care influencer, advises against overloading the lips with heavy products as we age. Instead, she emphasizes hydration and gentle ingredients. “Avoid harsh formulations that can cause chronic dryness,” Suarez says. “And don’t lick your lips — it only leads to more dryness and irritation.”
She also reminds people not to skip sun protection. Lips are prone to sunburn and cracking, so a good SPF lip balm is a must, especially for mature skin.
Hydration Is Your Friend
One of the best things you can do for aging lips — aside from clever makeup tricks — is keep them hydrated. And that’s where lip oils and tints come in.
Maureen Kelly, founder of Tarte Cosmetics, suggests pairing a lip tint with a nourishing lip oil. “As we get older, we tend to lose some pigment in our lips,” she told Parade. Her go-to product? Tarte’s Maracuja Juicy Lip Oil, which combines hyaluronic acid, antioxidant-rich superfruits, and maracuja oil to soften lines and add subtle, youthful color. The result is a dewy, “just-bitten” look that lasts.
If you’re in the market for something Oprah and Martha Stewart would approve of, try Ami Colé’s Hydrating Lip Treatment Oil. Featured as one of Oprah’s Favorite Things in 2023, this luxurious oil is packed with baobab seed, camellia seed, and passion fruit oils — all working together to deeply moisturize and restore suppleness. It’s no wonder it’s become a staple for celebrities like Zendaya and Tems.
The Bottom Line
While thinning lips are a normal part of aging, you don’t have to settle for a deflated pout. With just a few expert-approved techniques — from reshaping your lip line to using a stiff brush and bold colors — you can instantly enhance the fullness of your lips without fillers or fuss.
Pair that with a good lip oil and some mindful skincare, and your lips will look smoother, softer, and more defined at any age. As Rose-Marie Swift proves, a few clever tweaks can go a long way — no injections necessary.
